I may need to install a gauge at the test port and connect it to the cab while driving. We are expecting the truck back soon so I can try cleaning the MAP sensor to see if I can replicate the shop's success in replacing it temporarily. Despite trying various methods, we were not able to achieve the same result, but I believe the issue may lie with the MAP sensor, possibly due to a loose connection. I will provide an update in the hopes that this information can assist others. Thank you once again for your help!
If possible, please post or private message me the final eight digits of the VIN. Your vehicle's engine could either be a DT466 or a Maxxforce DT. Let's identify the engine type for further troubleshooting and maintenance.
cfherrman suggested checking the fuel pressure while driving at highway speeds with a loaded vehicle. However, in the case of my DT466 engine, being both loaded and at highway speeds simultaneously is typically not possible, unless going downhill.
- 09-11-2024
- materthegreater
The maximum highway speed limit can vary depending on your age, with speeds reaching up to 35 miles per hour if you are of a certain age.
TorchHypnosis mentioned the possibility of installing a gauge into the test port and connecting it to the cab while driving. We will be getting the truck back soon to try cleaning the MAP sensor and see if we can replicate the successful replacement done by the shop, which only lasted 20 minutes before issues reoccurred. Despite trying multiple methods, we couldn't achieve the same result, suggesting that the shop may have been right about the MAP sensor. It could be as simple as a loose connection. I will provide updates in the hopes that this information can benefit others. On a side note, using a Grease gun hose as a makeshift gauge attachment is a cheap and effective option. Just tape it to the outside of the windshield facing in.
Considering a potential replacement of the turbo, I am also considering inspecting the throttle linkage and cleaning the MAF sensor to address performance issues. Can anyone provide guidance on the location of the MAF sensor in a 2007 4300 series DT466? I am unable to locate it between the air cleaner and turbo inlet.
Fault codes related to the Variable Geometry Turbo (VGT) actuator commonly result in engine derating, potentially leading to a decrease in power output.
Consider installing a boost gauge to enhance your vehicle's performance.
Are you looking to replace the turbo actuator in your engine? Curious if your engine is equipped with two EGR coolers, one on each side? Could you provide the last eight digits of the VIN number for verification?
Thank you to all who responded, your input is greatly valued. The last 8 characters of the VIN are: 7H387378. I'm trying to recall if the shop replaced the MAP or the MAF before the vehicle ran smoothly for 20 minutes on an incline, only to act up again. I will confirm this information on the receipt when our accountant is available. They also installed a part called the barrel sensor, though I'm unsure of its function as it wasn't listed as a potential culprit for the specific error code: SID27 FMI6 Variable Geometry Turbocharger Actuator #1 Current above normal or grounded circuit. The EGR valve I see is a rectangular fixture fastened with bolts to the intake, not pipes, making it easier to handle. I haven't tried removing it yet, but cleaning it could be a solution if it's not internally buried. When the engine is derated, the ECM restricts vehicle performance to prevent further damage - commonly known as limp home mode, correct? I plan to extend the hose for the fuel pressure testing gauge so I can monitor it from the cab while driving. Is it possible that this truck doesn't have a MAF sensor and relies solely on the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor? I am eager to locate the MAF if it is indeed present. Thank you once again for your assistance, and my apologies for the lengthy response!
After replacing the MAP sensor, the truck ran smoothly for 20 minutes before experiencing issues again, a problem I have not been able to replicate. I am now curious about the presence and location of a MAF sensor in this vehicle. In the next two hours, I plan to replace both the turbo and the actuator, considering it cost-effective to replace the entire assembly for $1500. While I may not have the old turbo removed before my shift ends due to a lack of equipment, I aim to inspect its condition. Stay tuned for an update on my findings in a few hours. Hopefully, this discussion will be beneficial to others facing similar issues in the future.
Replacing components haphazardly can end up being expensive.
Feel free to reach out to me via private message with your email address so I can provide you with the necessary diagnostic manuals. It is a common issue for wires within the harness to break due to vibration near the sensor connector. To avoid unnecessary expenses, it is advisable to conduct some testing before considering turbo replacement. Use an O-ring pick to perform a 10 LB pull test on the individual wires connected to the MAP sensor.
I want to express my gratitude for sharing that document with me, Mekanic. Recently, we replaced the oil cooler, so I assume the screen was cleaned during the installation of the new one. However, I noticed that there was no line connecting the oil cooler to the turbo. Instead, there was a line running from the oil filter housing to the top of the turbo, and a pipe sealed with O-rings from the side of the turbo to the engine. Despite replacing the turbo recently, I am still encountering the SID27/FMI6 error code, indicating that the VGT actuator current is above normal or has a grounded circuit. Upon turning the key, I observed the actuator arm moving in and out, signaling communication with the ECM. Although I do not usually drive the truck, our driver reported not feeling a boost after stepping on the gas pedal following the turbo replacement. As a result, we decided against venturing onto the highway until the issue is resolved.
I have just cleared the error code and plan to test the truck on the highway with another driver to validate the previous driver's feedback. Additionally, I intend to take the truck to a reputable diesel shop located nearby, known for their exceptional service and high ratings on Google. While I initially considered using a fuel tester gauge extension to monitor fuel pressure in the cab during operation, I believe that a loss of fuel pressure would result in additional issues besides the turbo malfunctioning.
Thank you once again, Mekanic and others, for your assistance. I will update this post with the solution once identified, hoping it will benefit others facing similar problems in the future. I am optimistic that the issue is minor and not something significant, possibly leading to a solution that may seem obvious in hindsight.
Looking for the location of the map sensor?
What level of boost was it running at? Trust that the mechanic will provide the necessary repairs, but be prepared for a bill upwards of $10,000.
UPDATE: The second shop we brought the truck to kept it for over two weeks without being able to pinpoint the issue, leading to a delay in this update. Initially, they suggested reprogramming the turbo. However, they later claimed that the turbo was non-serviceable and lacked a programming port. They mentioned an issue with the VGT actuator arm moving backwards, contrary to what is expected. Despite both the old and new turbo showing the same actuator behavior, they suggested considering replacing the turbo again.
Before the drop-off, the only error code we encountered was related to the Variable Geometry Turbocharger Actuator, but it seems to have been cleared by the shop. We plan to explore potential issues with the MAP sensor connector and throttle rheostat. However, with the truck now experiencing further power loss, these may not be the root cause.
In a bid to resolve the problem, we are heading to RWC Group, an International dealership, for a thorough diagnosis, despite the hefty fee. Rest assured, we will share the outcome here. Thank you for your support and insights.
A smart investment would be to use that $600 to purchase a live data scanner, saving you from blindly replacing parts in search of a solution.
UPDATE: Finally retrieved my truck from the second repair shop after a frustrating two-week wait, only to find out they did not fix anything. Initially, they claimed the issue was a simple programming issue. However, the next day, they informed me that the turbo could not be programmed due to the absence of a programming port. Additionally, they pointed out that the actuator arm was moving in the wrong direction. Interestingly, both the old turbo and the new one I installed moved in the same manner when the key was turned on: first all the way out, then all the way in, and back to center. Despite the shop's explanation, most sources I consulted, including mechanics and forums, indicated the actuator arms of both turbos were functioning correctly. This leads me to believe there may be an underlying cause for the turbo failure. The persistent error code I continue to encounter is DTC:SID27/FMI6, indicating a VGT actuator current above normal or a grounded circuit. I did notice that the MAP sensor connector was slightly loose, prompting me to consider replacing it. Additionally, I plan to inspect the rheostat linked to the gas pedal for any potential issues causing the truck to enter limp mode. Although it's puzzling that no code has been thrown if this were the case. I have come across suggestions of cutting the red wire at the actuator and installing a switch to bypass the solenoid and fully open the turbo, but I am hesitant to try this method as it is not recommended by most. I am determined to uncover the root cause of the problem. Unfortunately, further troubleshooting will have to wait as my boss has decided to take the truck to the dealership, despite their hefty diagnostic fee of over $600. However, they assure an accurate diagnosis will be provided. I want to express my gratitude to everyone for their valuable input. I will update with the resolution as soon as possible!
cfherrman, we have a cutting-edge scanner that can analyze real-time data. This advanced tool enabled me to eliminate a staggering 13 out of the 14 initial Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Thank you for the recommendation, but utilizing the scanner was actually the initial step I took in resolving the issues.
Check your boost pressure and throttle position to monitor their performance. If your engine is running similar to a 6.0, avoid tampering with the vgt as it also regulates the hoist and can cause over boosting issues. Keep an eye on these parameters to ensure your engine runs smoothly.
mekanik suggested sharing the last eight digits of the VIN. It seems there may be a fuel issue with the pressure dropping under load. Interestingly, when removing the fuel pressure regulator, some black oil-like substance came out. Which fuel pressure regulator are you referring to? When replacing the filter, did you notice any dirt or debris buildup in the housing? The fuel pressure regulator, located at the bottom of the filter housing, has a stainless orifice with a spring-loaded plunger. Use a 7mm allen socket to remove it and clean it with compressed air.
For the 07 DT466, there is no fuel return line. Instead, fuel cycles back to the inlet on the filter housing through the regulator. Any debris in the housing can affect the regulator's function and fuel pressure. Be cautious of the tube in the middle of the housing, as it is where filtered fuel enters the engine. Ensure it stays clean during maintenance.
If there is significant debris in the housing, remove the fuel supply line and clean out the housing thoroughly. The strainer at the bottom can also become clogged over time and may need cleaning. A quick coupler on the plastic filter cap should allow for easy pressure testing under load.
While turbo actuator issues may not directly cause power loss, a boost leak could be a contributing factor. Keep in mind that the strainer in the housing is often a culprit for low power complaints.
Two questions for the experts: When referring to the engine running like a 6.0, is this a measurement of boost? And can you please specify? Also, which specific strainer are you referring to - the one located under the fuel filter/water separator housing?
I recently brought my truck to the dealership and provided them with a list of the original 14 stored codes that were present before I started working on it. Although I cleared 13 of the 14 codes, I noticed one that concerns me: SID146 FMI7 indicating an issue with the EGR valve mechanical system. I did not make any changes to the EGR valve, so I'm wondering if this could be a problem. We have driven the truck 140 miles on the highway since resolving the VGT actuator code - is it possible that the EGR valve is malfunctioning without triggering a code? Thank you for your assistance!
Posts discussing the potential impact of the EGR valve on SID146/FMI7 (354) codes keep catching my eye, especially since they pertain to my specific truck model. The EGR system plays a crucial role in regulating exhaust gas flow and back pressure, with the ECM adjusting pulse width modulation to the VGT control module based on factors like engine speed, fuel quantity, and altitude. The EGR drive module, located on the left side of the engine, manages the EGR actuator and communicates with the ECM to ensure optimal valve positioning. Various sensors, including the EBP sensor and MAP sensor, provide crucial data to the ECM for accurate EGR valve control.
Fault detection is a key aspect of the system, with the ECM monitoring the Variable Geometry Turbocharger (VGT) and EGR actuator for errors. DTC 354 is triggered when the ECM adjusts the VGT duty cycle to achieve the desired boost or exhaust back pressure. Possible causes of this error, such as sensor bias or exhaust restrictions, require thorough diagnostics and inspection to resolve. By understanding the intricate workings of the EGR system and its components, truck owners can effectively address performance issues and ensure optimal engine function.
The Ford 6.0 diesel engine, manufactured by International as a HEUI engine with the model VT365.
cfherrman mentioned the Ford 6.0 diesel engine, which is a HEUI engine manufactured by International known as VT365. Thank you for sharing this information, cfherrman.
Hello everyone! I recently picked up my truck from the RWC group truck dealership in Tacoma, WA, and unfortunately, I was not very impressed with their service. They quoted me $690 for a diagnostic, and after performing it, they identified issues with the EGR valve not closing, a muffler restriction, the need for a clutch kit, and a leaky rear diff. The total cost for repairs was estimated at $20,000, with $1800 just for the EGR valve alone.
However, upon further inspection, I found that the EGR valve was actually in good condition, contradicting their diagnosis. I replaced it with a Dorman EGR valve but did not see any improvement in the issue. As for the clutch, I have not experienced any slipping or difficulty getting it into gear, so the diagnosis seemed incorrect in that aspect as well.
I am now focusing on checking the muffler for any issues, as the last possible culprit for the problems. I will be testing the pressure just before the muffler to determine if there are any blockages affecting performance. So far, the pressure readings seem normal, but I will continue investigating.
In addition, I noticed loose connections at the MAP and EGR actuator connectors, so I will be replacing them soon. I will keep updating this thread as I work through these issues and try to solve the problems with my truck. Any advice or insights are greatly appreciated as I navigate through this challenging situation. Thank you! -Monte
I was unable to find information on the normal back pressure online, but I observed a sudden increase in backpressure from 7.75 to 12.6 PSI when I shut off the engine. It is unexpected for backpressure not to drop to zero when the engine is off. I am considering inserting a pressure gauge before the muffler to further investigate. Could there be a malfunction in the EBP sensor causing this issue? I will also recheck the fuel pressure. When I pressed the gas pedal to the floor, the truck reached a maximum of 2750 RPM. Could there be a governor limiting it from going any higher? Thank you in advance for your help!
Consider removing the muffler and going for a test drive to determine the performance. It appears that my vehicle is limited to around 2600 rpm, but I have yet to test its full potential in neutral.
- 11-11-2024
- materthegreater
Do you have the capability to access real-time engine data while driving your truck? Monitoring parameters such as ICP desired and ICP actual, as well as installing a fuel pressure gauge to track pressure while on the road, could be beneficial. Based on the VIN, your truck was manufactured in February 2006, making it a 2006 model with an engine rated at 210 HP, leaving no extra power to spare. Attached are the performance specifications from the diagnostic manual for reference.
The fuel filter breakdown includes the orifice/regulator assembly at #6, which is prone to debris buildup on the seat. A decrease of 5 or 10 psi in pressure can significantly affect power output, even though a gauge may still show 50-55 psi when idle. The transfer pump features three valves that may wear out, leading to a drop in fuel pressure and power loss. Monitoring pressure with a gauge while driving can determine the valves' condition. Additionally, a decline in performance may indicate a worn high-pressure pump unable to achieve the desired ICP.
Thank you, Mekanic! I made sure to clean out the fuel filter housing when I replaced the fuel pump, but I didn't check the #6. I will look into that first thing tomorrow and review all the documents you provided. Additionally, I conducted an exhaust back pressure test using a mechanical PSI gauge. The readings showed 0.8 PSI at idle (615 RPM), 5 PSI at 1000 RPM, 10 PSI at 1500 RPM, and 20 PSI at 2000 RPM. Do these values appear elevated to you? It seems my scanner was showing different readings, indicating a possible sensor malfunction. I trust the results from the mechanical gauge.
Regarding fuel pressure under load, I plan to visit an industrial hydraulics store at 8 AM PST for a custom hose to monitor fuel pressure from the cab. The readings displayed 60 PSI at idle and 60 PSI at 2500 RPM, dropping to 52 PSI momentarily when I accelerated before returning to 60 PSI. I will provide more updates on this matter by noon tomorrow. Once again, thank you for your assistance!
When measuring back pressure in a turbocharged engine, do you measure it before or after the turbo? According to the specifications on page 2, the back pressure should be 16.1 kPa or 2.33 psi after the turbo at 2300 rpm.
It is likely that the back pressure sensor is located before the turbocharger rather than after it, as it may not be effective in improving performance in that location. When conducting a cold engine diagnostic, make sure that the key-on, engine-off MAP barometric and Exhaust Back Pressure (EBP) readings match. Understanding this concept can help you realize that relying solely on mechanics may not always provide a solution to the problem.
Mekanic...wow! I found the numbers to be on the higher side. To address this, I drilled a hole in the exhaust just before the muffler and installed a 0-15 PSI pressure gauge. I didn't spot an o2 sensor or EBP sensor between the muffler and the turbo outlet, so I had to create my own port. This was necessary as the live data from my scanner regarding exhaust back pressure was confusing. The barometric pressure reading was slightly above 14, which is expected at sea level. I measured the pressure after the turbo, right before the muffler. Although I planned to conduct tests and share data around noon today, I arrived late at work due to inspecting a vehicle. I will now examine the components within the fuel filter housing. Regrettably, I won't have time to make a hose extending from the fuel pressure test port at the rail until tomorrow. The muffler has been ordered and will arrive tomorrow morning. Thank you once again! How can I thank you for the valuable information provided? I genuinely appreciate it. Stay tuned for another post tomorrow.
Mekanik mentioned that the orifice/regulator assembly (#6) in the fuel filter can suffer from debris build-up, leading to a drop in pressure and loss of power. Monitoring the pressure with a gauge is important, as a decrease in pressure can indicate issues with the transfer pump valves or high pressure pump. If the high pressure pump is failing to deliver sufficient ICP, it can result in a lack of power. It is recommended to inspect the fuel filter housing regularly for any debris accumulation. If gunk is present, it may be necessary to clean the housing and replace the filter. When removing the #6 part, ensure to follow proper procedures to prevent any damage.
I recently came across an interesting observation. After accidentally leaving my diagnostic scanner plugged into the OBD port overnight, I made sure to put the cap back on the fuel filter housing before starting the engine to avoid any potential issues with auxiliary systems on the can bus. The engine started without any problems, but I couldn't help but notice that the pressure gauge in the exhaust pipe showed a reading of 3.5 PSI on a cold engine during startup. This was a significant increase from the reading of just under 1 PSI when the engine was warm the day before. After 15 minutes, the engine temperature reached 155 degrees and the pressure before the muffler rose to 4 PSI. Just something to keep in mind.
I apologize for the multiple posts, but during the process of ordering a new muffler, I noticed a stamp on the rusted part that read "CATALYST". It appears to be a catalyst muffler, which could be the reason for the issues. Although I am tempted to remove it and replace it with a standard muffler, I believe it would be wiser to invest in another catalyst muffler. Before doing so, can I try cutting it off to see if it improves the performance of the vehicle?
To access the orifice in the filter housing, you will need a 7mm allen wrench for removal. The accumulation of grit in the housing can pass through the orifice into the fuel inlet, strainer, transfer pump, and back into the filter housing, leading to power loss over time. Cleaning the orifice with brake cleaner and a blow gun after removal is essential to avoid this issue. It is important to thoroughly clean out the housing by removing the inlet line and flushing the filter housing. Consider the cost of Catalyst mufflers before removing them for a test drive without it.
The plan is to remove the catalyzing muffler to improve the performance of the engine. After the turbo outlet, there are no sensors, so the only impact of removing the muffler would be a slight drop in backpressure. With 90% certainty, the engine should still operate correctly without it. There is a concern that the engine might rely on backpressure to seat the exhaust valves properly. In a few hours, I will be cutting off the muffler and taking the vehicle for a test drive.
Before addressing the gunk in the fuel filter housing, I want to conduct this exhaust test. The RWS group is asking for $2600 for the catalyzing muffler, but I have found a new one on eBay for $600 using the International part number. Once accounting approves, I will proceed with the purchase.
Thank you, Mekanic, for your assistance. I can see progress on the horizon. Oh, wait, that's just a mirror reflecting light from the entrance behind me.
For those encountering unusual turbo problems with their 06-07 4300 series equipped with a DT466 engine, the root cause was identified as a clogged catalytic converter located inside the muffler. Initially unaware of the presence of the catalytic converter, a pressure gauge with a range of 0-15 PSI was inserted before the muffler to reveal a high PSI reading, prompting further investigation. Upon noticing a "catalyst" stamp on the muffler, it became evident that there was more to it than just serving as a muffler. Typically, the pressure just before the catalytic muffler should have been slightly below 1 PSI at 2000 RPM without a load, however, it was registering at 20 PSI. Removal of the obstructing element resulted in the restoration of power. This experience, ending a two-month ordeal, is shared in hopes of assisting others in avoiding a time-consuming and expensive endeavor. Special thanks to Mekanic and fellow advisors for their guidance. The International part number for the catalytic muffler is 3612612C1, which can be found on eBay for $600, significantly lower than the dealership's price. Best of luck to all, and happy troubleshooting!
materthegreater suggested a quick solution to test the vehicle by removing the muffler and going for a test drive. However, the process revealed unexpected back pressure readings, prompting the decision to insert a pressure gauge before the muffler. Surprisingly, a catalytic converter was discovered inside the muffler, a detail unknown to both mechanics and the dealership.
After removing the catalyst muffler, the truck ran smoothly, proving to be a rare find in the automotive world. This discovery came after a problematic diagnostic process that left the owner with a hefty bill. Ultimately, the removal of the catalyst muffler resulted in the truck performing exceptionally well.
TorchHypnosis expressed disappointment after retrieving their truck from a dealership in Tacoma, WA. They were less than impressed with the service received and hoped to avoid similar experiences in the future.