When dealing with a stubborn piece of wire stuck in a machine, it's crucial to use shop air to dislodge it. If the distribution system is connected to the oil pump, it may also help clear the obstruction. However, if the bearings are extremely worn out, this may not be the solution.
Have you possibly bent a pushrod? This could cause the lifter to dislodge and lead to a loss of oil pressure.
My grandfather mentioned the possibility of a bent pushrod causing the lifter to lose oil pressure. This could result in a rough-running engine. It is a plausible explanation for the problem.
I encountered a problem with my 390FE block engine when the safety valve on the pump malfunctioned and got stuck, causing oil to flow but no pressure. This issue can occur when the safety valve opens up cold and fails to function properly. Just a tip for those dealing with similar engine problems.
After discovering three bent pushrods, we are now in the process of removing the intake manifold. The engine had been idle for three years, leading us to suspect a stuck valve or collapsed lifter. By adjusting the lash, we were able to resolve the issue. Stay tuned for additional information and pictures. Thank you for the comments regarding the pushrods. It's worth noting that there was a noticeable miss in the engine, with only one cylinder showing abnormalities on the spark plug.
Occasionally, my 440 Chrysler encounters an issue where its relief valve gets stuck, causing the filter to be blown off.
It's important to remember that push rods may vary in length, so make sure to keep track of their original positions.
There are two intakes on one side of the bank and one on the opposite side, with progress being made to remove the intake manifold. Grateful for the helpful suggestions, it's surprising to discover the issue! Now, the focus is on uncovering why the pushrods became bent. Motorhead associates are insistent on using a boroscope to examine the cylinders and determine if there has been contact between the piston and valve.
It's truly impressive how the engine continues to run smoothly despite the bent intake pushrods. This raises the question - could it possibly function without them altogether? It's a testament to the engine's durability and performance.
I'm still wrapping my mind around the improvement in performance after installing the new carburetor in my engine. Theoceanobob mentioned that the engine ran noticeably better and started more smoothly with the new carb.
Ronsii marveled at the impressive engine's performance despite its visibly bent parts. He even questioned whether it needed intake pushrods at all. Looks like Ronsii takes the win this time!
It appears that I may have misunderstood the situation from the start. It seems that the car experienced a loss of oil pressure soon after a carburetor was installed during the test drive.
In response to td25c's query, it seems there may have been a misunderstanding regarding the loss of oil pressure after installing a carburetor and during the test drive. Could the new carburetor be to blame for the subsequent issues, such as bending? It's worth exploring how the introduction of the new carburetor may have enabled higher revs and potentially caused the oil pressure problem.
There are countless variables and situations that a person may encounter, making it difficult to provide accurate advice without being physically present. Recently, I installed a new carburetor set on my old Ford and it ran smoothly without any issues.
Pushrods appear as twisted as politicians and lawyers, with a curvy and intriguing design that adds a unique touch to any engine.
The pushrods appear to be in excellent condition with no signs of bending or distortion.
Another impressive job by Grandpa! He may be like the old dog in the corner, but when he speaks up, everyone listens. Those rods don't look right - did someone install a 650 double pumper incorrectly? It seems like someone may have not set the valves correctly, causing starting issues and the need for a new carburetor. Perhaps someone tried a quick-start method to get it running. Either way, glad you were able to find a solution.
After experiencing constant issues such as leaks, hard starting, flooding, and run-on after key off, it was evident that the carburetor on this truck was malfunctioning. The engine never ran smoothly, always having a miss at idle. However, once it got running, the miss seemed to fade away. The truck had been sitting for three years before being restarted with fresh fuel, which resulted in the same carburetor issues. After replacing the old carburetor with a new aftermarket one from NAPA, the problems were finally resolved, including the terrible run-on issues. Despite the miss at idle persisting, the overall performance improved significantly. A few short test runs were done before noticing the oil pressure drop to zero upon return to the shop.
As for the "how it ran" reports, there are speculations about a cylinder with a shut valve leading to a smooth consequence, similar to engines with cylinder deactivation. The concern now is how the engine will perform once the valve train is repaired and all cylinders contribute. An inspection is recommended to determine if the valves may be bent, potentially requiring the heads to come off.
The question of when and how the pushrods got bent arises, with theories ranging from collapsed lifters causing excessive lash to valves being stuck from sitting, leading to piston-valve contact. There is also speculation about a previous driver possibly over-revving the engine in the past, causing valve float. Progress on the repairs will be updated, with appreciation for any assistance. Stay tuned for more updates.
One effective method to check for bent valves in an engine is to remove all the push rods so that all the valves are closed. Then, you can apply air pressure to each cylinder individually using a compression testing adapter or a homemade tool made from an oil spark plug. By listening for any unusual sounds in the exhaust or intake, you can easily identify any bent valves. If you notice a slight leak in a valve, try tapping on it while under pressure to ensure it's not just loose carbon buildup. However, take caution when pressurizing cylinders as the engine may turn over if not at the proper top dead center or bottom dead center position.
Oh no! I had a great idea but somehow lost it. Will have to give it another shot. How frustrating! Rewrote it a second time, only for the original to reappear. Perhaps it's time for a lunch break and a refreshing cold beer. After all, I'm retired and on light duty due to hand surgery.
kshansen mentioned losing their initial idea but is determined to try again. The idea revolves around determining if all pushrods are out, all valves should be closed. One method suggested is to apply air pressure to each cylinder individually and listen for any air escaping through the intake or exhaust. This can be achieved using an adapter for a compression tester or creating a tool from an old spark plug. If there is slight air leakage from a cylinder, tapping the valves while under pressure can help dislodge any debris causing the issue. It is important to note that applying air pressure with the piston not at top or bottom center can cause the engine to rotate, so caution is advised. Deal with computer issues yet? Don't worry, there's still time to make any necessary edits.
It is possible that the valves might have become stuck from being idle for a long period, leading to them becoming slightly bent upon startup and further bending at higher RPM while driving. This could be the cause of the oil-related problems and engine shut down. You may have noticed that 3 out of the 8 valves were not firing at all when the engine was at idle, unless they were evenly spaced out in the firing order. Try pounding the valves straight to see if it improves the engine's performance.
Shimmy1 jokingly mentioned facing computer problems while posting but managed to get their message across successfully. They also advised to edit any mistakes quickly. This mistake pales in comparison to a different website experience where a reply was duplicated numerous times.
It's common for lifters to take a while to properly pump and bleed, which can happen after being set for a period of time.
It is likely that the issue stemmed from the carburetor, leading to an over-fueling problem and subsequent backfire.
Instability in the valve train and weakened valve springs can occur when the springs are continually compressed and are already weak. When high RPMs are combined with thick oil and weak springs, it can result in bent push rods. Pump-up, which cancels out preload, can cause the rocker to not fully close by the predetermined amount set by the rocker ratio. A lifter with a preload of .050 x rocker ratio may experience pump-up. FE blocks typically have a lifter tolerance of .050 to .150 for self-adjusting lifters. While not extremely common, this issue can occur in Ford FE and Mopar LA, R & RB engines with self-adjusting valve trains.
Today, the intake manifold was removed to reveal a clear view of the valley, showcasing three lifters dislodged from their bores - in line with the three bent pushrods, just as Grandpa foretold! However, the distributor is still jammed, and there are issues with the movement of some valves.
It appears there are some "lazy lifters" in your vehicle that have chosen to take a break! Perhaps it's time to consider removing the cylinder heads.
It is true that Grandpa was right about the lifters popping out. If they were properly treated lifters, they would not be easily removed with vise grips. The valves are stuck because they are bent, likely due to the high rpms the engine experienced. These lifters are part of a sled fulcrum self-adjusting design for the 385 family of engines.
Having a governor in the engine ensures that over-revving can only occur through a forceful downshift, right? Local car enthusiasts suggest that pushrods are more likely to bend in a Ford V8 compared to a Chevrolet, attributing it to the valve train angle differences between the two. Some people speculate that the intake valves may be stuck due to varnish buildup from old gasoline. Recently, efforts have been made to address this issue by soaking the intake valves with products like Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam to loosen the varnish. As of now, no boroscope inspection has been conducted to provide further insight. This discussion is specifically focused on medium duty truck engines, not on vehicles like Broncos, Mustangs, Camaros, or pickups.
If you're experiencing issues with your engine, consider purchasing a few additional pushrods as a potential solution. It's worth attempting this step before delving further into the problem.
Consider trying to lubricate the valve stems with a penetrating fluid to help them move freely. Gently press down on the valves by hand or tap them with a hammer to test their proper functioning. If they appear to be working well, proceed to blow air pressure into each cylinder to check for any leaks. Make sure to remove the rockers or push rods before conducting this test. While a bore scope may seem advanced, it may not detect minor issues that can be easily identified with the use of air pressure.
When working on my Birken engine, I usually spray it down and then turn it over using the starter, as shown in the photo. This helps me check for any sticking valves in the guides.
Oceanobob documented the progress of removing the intake manifold and shared a photo of the engine's valley, showcasing three lifters dislodged from their bores, confirming Grandpa's prediction of three bent pushrods. Although facing challenges with a stuck distributor and valves not moving smoothly, the interior appears remarkably clean without any sludge or debris accumulation visible. Coaxing and maneuvering the seized Ford 302 project's distributor required the use of PB Blaster and gentle tapping with a brass drift before it finally budged after sitting idle for 35 years.
The distributor is being stubborn, but efforts are being made to free it up by regularly applying penetrating oil. One of the stuck intake valves underwent an experiment where the spring and seal were removed, and lockwire was added to the valve's keeper groove to prevent accidental drops. A dam/funnel was placed at the guide, and a solution was allowed to soak the valve stem, which resulted in increased freedom after three hours. A sash cord was used in the cylinder to keep the valve in place while the guide seal, spring, and retainer were reinstalled. Two more valves still need to be freed up, hopefully through soaking. It would be helpful if the distributor cooperates with the process.
Regarding the TD25C: There are concerns about whether a part may have been left behind in the distributor. A YouTube video showing the removal of a distributor from a Galaxy 500 using a hammer and chisel serves as a cautionary tale, as finding replacement parts may prove difficult. The engine appears to be in good condition internally, potentially due to a recent rebuild or maintenance, as evidenced by the lack of oil consumption and smoke despite previous issues with the carburetor.
It's unbelievable how well that engine ran despite any challenges while on the road! For optimal performance, I recommend disassembling each individual tappet and allowing them to soak in penetrating oil before reassembling them in engine oil. Alternatively, you could consider replacing them altogether.
Haha, Pumpguy, it looks like you've convinced yourself to get new lifters! I can't help but laugh, but I appreciate your mindset.
Oceanobob inquired about the distributor on the TD25C model, specifically asking if it appeared to be missing a part in the 302 picture. Viewing from the back of the 302, it was noted that the distributor is located above the bellhousing, near an oil galley plug. It is important to be patient when working on the distributor and use penetrating lubricant to avoid breaking any components. Taking the time to carefully loosen any stuck areas will help prevent damage during maintenance.
Thank you for the detailed description of the engine issue. Despite the distributor being stuck, air pressure testing revealed that the three cylinders with bent pushrods have good valve sealing, suggesting that there may not be any bent valves. Currently, two more intake valves need to be freed and the distributor needs to be loosened, with a set of new pushrods already acquired.
The theory proposes that out of the eight intake valves, only one or possibly two are open at any given time when the engine is not running. This means that there are six closed valves, three of which may have become stuck due to varnish build-up from bad gasoline. This build-up may have caused the valves to stick in the closed position, leading to issues upon startup. The lack of a theory for why other valves didn't stick open is attributed to luck.
It is believed that the high rotating mass and mild cam timing of the engine allowed it to run without major issues, despite some cylinders not firing. This was possible because there was no heavy load, such as pulling a trailer or a full dump bed.
I recently had a dispute with a customer who disagreed with my diagnosis on a Ford 2.3 Pinto engine that was experiencing inconsistent compression issues in different cylinders. Despite his initial reluctance, we eventually discovered that the real issue was a worn upper distributor bushing causing erratic timing. The engine, which had only been operated on propane or natural gas, had valves that occasionally failed to fully seat leading to failed tests. However, once the underlying problem was resolved, the engine ran smoothly. It has been running perfectly for over 2 years now, even under heavy use. This story highlights the importance of addressing underlying issues rather than solely relying on diagnostic tests.
The final valve was successfully released through the oil soaking technique and using a drill motor to rotate the valve back and forth. Instead of using air pressure, sash cord was used to fill the cylinder. It is possible that the remaining five valves could also be improved by undergoing this cleaning process to eliminate any residue from the contact area. While it may be time-consuming to insert the sash cord into the cylinder, compress the springs, and remove the seal to soak the valve stem, it is a necessary step in the process. Additionally, the distributor is still stuck in the engine block.
It's great to hear that you're making progress! I'm pleased to know that the cylinders with the bent push rods are holding air, ensuring that the valves remain undamaged. This is a positive development in your repair work.
The process of balancing the 'free moving' intake valves, specifically five out of eight, has been successfully completed. This involved removing the keepers, springs, and stem seals to allow a dissolver/cleaner to eliminate any deposits. The valves can now be easily moved without the risk of dropping, thanks to the sash cord method and an additional piece of tie wire for security. Marvel Mystery, SeaFoam, and CRC are among the products used for this cleaning process. Two sash cords are being utilized to work on two cylinders simultaneously.
The Distributor is proving difficult to remove but is continuously being soaked for eventual removal. New pushrods and gaskets have been purchased in preparation for reassembly. It was observed that the solvent travels into the cylinder, around the piston, and drips onto the floor, indicating the need for an oil change if the solvent amounts are concerning, especially with the oil pan installed.
The previous carburetor and old gas from extended storage are possible causes for the intake valve stem binding in the guide. These issues may have led to the valves seizing, similar to rust on a tightly fitted bolt. The good news is that the heads do not need to be removed, avoiding significant expenses.
The engine has been successfully started and is running smoothly without any issues. Oil pressure at idle is measuring around 70 psi using the new mechanical gauge, a significant improvement from when the lifters were displaced. The next step is road testing to ensure optimal performance. It is evident from the images that the Project Schedule involves cleaning and beautification efforts. The distributor remains in its original, stuck condition.
The application of fresh paint not only enhances the appearance but also improves the functionality of objects.
Ronsii enthusiastically shared, "Fresh paint not only enhances the appearance but also improves the performance of things!" It's a simple way to make customers feel great about their purchase. I once knew a mechanic who owned a truck repair shop for years. Whenever he rebuilt an engine, he would always paint it and apply a thick coat of paint on the exhaust manifold. The smell of the burning paint would reassure the owner that significant work had been done on their engine.