To ensure proper charging of the battery in your machine, connect one of the 15 VDC DC wires to the same terminal on the starter's solenoid as the red battery terminal. It is important to check for a possible fuse in this connection. Following the machine's startup, test the DC voltage from the Positive solenoid terminal to ground. The presence of 15 VDC confirms a good connection, but if not, it could indicate a faulty positive battery cable, a shorted cell in the battery, or a defective wire from the alternator to the solenoid. Kindly inform me of your findings.
If possible, please share some images of the wiring section. Documenting the wiring setup can be beneficial for troubleshooting and maintenance purposes.
Having previously worked as an electronics technician for over 35 years, I am now a firefighter. Rest assured, I have the skills to pinpoint and resolve any issues that arise.
I'm in my mid-twenties, not that old! It's so funny how the number 3 is right next to the 2 on the keyboard. Oh well, can't stop laughing about it!
There are two wires connecting the alternator to a plug that then links to the voltage regulator. For more visual reference, please refer to the attached images.
"Oh no! A mistake has been made."
Impressive photographs! The small white wire seen in your last picture, which is connected to the solenoid above the red battery wire, should ideally have a voltage of 15 Volts DC when grounded. If not, it could indicate issues such as a poor connection to the battery, faulty wire, or a bad battery. On the other hand, if the voltage is correct, the problem might lie with the regulator/rectifier (silver/aluminum component with cooling fins), a bad connection, or a faulty wire. Take a voltage measurement from the solenoid with the red and small white wire to the ground to determine the next steps. Keeping fingers crossed for a reading of 15 Volts DC!
I am stepping away from the computer in NC for a while. If you need further information regarding the measurement you just took, please feel free to contact me at 412-965-1580 on my cell phone.
After replacing the batteries and troubleshooting the white and red wires on the solenoid, I found that the voltage was only measuring at 11.9 volts - the same as the battery. Before starting, the battery showed 12.7 volts, but after running, it dropped to 11.9 volts. This prompted me to suspect that the regulator may be the culprit for not properly recharging the battery. Could it also be responsible for the dummy battery light on the console staying illuminated? Let's ensure we're all on the same page regarding this issue.
It seems like the issue may be related to the regulator/rectifier or poor connections. To diagnose the problem, you can try using isopropyl alcohol and an acid brush. Why spend $50.00 when a $1.00 solution could do the job just as effectively? Please keep me updated on any developments.
After receiving the new voltage regulator, the dashboard continues to display the warning light for the charging system. What should be the next step to troubleshoot this issue?
What is the optimal voltage for a standalone battery (not connected to any devices)? It should be at least 12.5 volts to stimulate the engine coils and generate the necessary feedback to recharge the battery. While it may seem counterintuitive compared to starting a car with a low battery that charges while running, these batteries require a certain voltage to function properly. It is essential to have a strong and healthy battery for optimal performance. Additionally, ensure all connections are checked and cleaned. I recently purchased a regulator for $135.00 and will be installing it soon in hopes of resolving any issues with my battery.
NCPipe features a permanent magnet alternator that generates alternating current (AC) rather than direct current (DC). Due to their low amp output, these alternators do not charge efficiently at idle; the engine must be revved up to achieve a proper charge. To test the output, use a multi tester set on AC current on the two blue wires. The voltage should ideally be above 20 to 25 volts AC.
Should I examine both wires for AC and then report back, considering the possibility that the alternator is faulty?
If you're concerned about your alternator, don't worry just yet. The best way to find out if it's bad is to test it. With only two wires connected to it, you can tell it's a permanent magnet alternator without an external exciter wire. This means that the permanent magnets create the magnetic field needed to generate current while it's turning. Despite generating AC current, which is not as powerful as DC current, it still needs to produce at least 20 to 25 volts AC in order to provide the necessary 13 +/- volts DC output at the rectifier. So, testing it is key to determining its performance.
After conducting a successful alternator test and inspecting the ground thoroughly, everything appears to be in good working order. Despite this, the "charging system" light on the dashboard continues to illuminate, and the battery goes dead after just a few days of use.
Are you in need of the electrical diagram?
Check out this resource for the Dingo model 322: http://www.imarksweb.net/aws/view.php?u=aHR0cDovL2JzZWhvbWUubmV0L3BkZi8xMlZfV1BNLnBkZg==. See if it provides the information you need.
If your battery is not charging, it could be due to insufficient power supply from the charging wire or a faulty battery. It is essential to ensure that the charging wire is connected correctly to avoid any power issues. In my case, the problem was a faulty rectifier and harness. Make sure to install a new rectifier properly to avoid facing the same issues. It is crucial to double-check the connections and not rely on previous wiring setups to prevent potential issues.
I apologize for the confusion, but after reading this guide, I didn't find any information on dingoes as it had promised. I will continue my search for relevant details.
To access the wiring diagram for the Toro Dingo 322, you can download the schematic after signing up on Blitzdownloads.com. Visit the link below to get the diagram: http://www.blitzdownloads.com/search/2505/wiring+diagram+toro+dingo+322.html.
"Identify the charging cable: which one is it?"
The wire that goes from the regulator/rectifier to the starter solenoid on the side with the battery connection is typically white in color. This wire plays a crucial role in maintaining the electrical system of a vehicle or power equipment.
Hello, good morning! I've been researching the issue with your prowler. I also have a similar problem at my shop - I can't seem to find the wiring diagrams for the prowler side of the unit. I'm a Honda dealer who recently replaced the motor, but I'm struggling to update the outdated 20th-century wiring to the modern standards of the 21st century. Like your unit, I have encountered too many outdated modifications on this vehicle. Have you had any luck finding the diagrams? My serial number is 0162. Any guidance or information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Brian.
Hey Brian, I managed to locate the schematics you need. There are actually multiple versions available. I can send them over to you via email or share them here. The only issue is that I'm currently on the night shift as a firefighter, and it's currently 3:45 AM. I'll be heading out for a 9-day vacation in the morning and unfortunately, I don't have the information with me as it's on my home computer. I'll try my best to send it to you before I leave, if possible. For me, the solution was fairly straightforward. I obtained the parts list from Mertz, ordered everything, and replaced all the necessary components, including the high range switch for $55.00, which really improved performance. The total cost came to approximately $400.00, but now it's as good as new.
Thank you for your prompt response! Please feel free to reach me at [email protected] so we can connect and chat at your convenience. Thanks again, Brian.
I am revisiting this issue as I have yet to pinpoint the problem despite replacing various components. It seems that the last step left is to replace the battery cable, but I am puzzled as to why this would not resolve the battery charging issue. Can you shed some light on this situation?
You're welcome for the schematics I provided, even though I didn't receive any thanks in return. It's crucial for the battery cable positive wire, ground wire, and ground connection to have a strong and secure connection for proper charging. If the connection is inadequate, there will be no charge or even a discharge. It is essential to ensure a good connection for optimal charging performance.
Hello there! Before turning on the rotor, be sure to check if the magnet is in place. If the magnet is missing, then it's worth checking the carbon brush as it may be too short to make contact with the slip ring. This could be causing the issue.
Apologies to the Fireman and thank you for the drawings. I acknowledge my mistake and take full responsibility. One issue I am still facing is the white wire seen in the original photos, which appears to be a two-piece wire. I have replaced the shorter end, as per your suggestion, but I am unsure of where the second half connects. I believe it may need to be connected to the positive and negative terminals of the battery, as the vehicle starts up without issue but fails to recharge. As a temporary solution, I have been swapping batteries every few days to keep the vehicle running.
I apologize, NCPIPELINE. I mistakenly confused you with UNIVERSAL. Upon closer inspection of the photos, I do not see a white wire. However, on my machine, there is a white wire that connects to the positive terminal of the starter. This wire originates from the rectifier and carries around 14 volts at higher engine speeds and less at lower speeds. It then connects to the battery through the red battery cable. When purchasing a new rectifier, did you also invest in a new cable harness? I did, and it turned out to be a wise decision as there was a faulty wire within the harness itself, not just at the ends.
NCPIPELINE mentioned they are still struggling to identify the root of the issue despite replacing various components. The latest suspicion is that the battery cable may need replacing, but concern remains as to why the battery still won't charge. Corrosion at the battery post can slowly spread towards the starter through the cable insulation, with varying degrees of severity observed. In severe cases, the insulation may swell, while in other instances, it may not show any visible signs.
Prioritize: Should you start by addressing the new positive and negative aspects, or focus on the harness first?
Be the first to experience it all!
"10-4" is a commonly used code meaning "acknowledged" or "understood" in communication.
Keep me updated on the progress. Hopefully, the repair costs won't break the bank. Fingers crossed that the rectifier is still functioning properly despite the possibility of a faulty wire. Best of luck with the repairs!
Sure thing! Have you experienced this issue before? I came across both wires and a harness for approximately $80. It's a bit confusing to identify the exact harness I need from the diagrams. Can you take a look at this link and advise me on which harness I should get?https://landscapersolutions.toro.co...ommunityID=230&PageID=30048#drawingResultPageOnce you're on the page, simply click on "look up parts" to access the list of all the parts pages.
Can you provide the year and serial number of the product?
Looking for a 2005 model with the serial number 22303 and ending in 25xxxx199?
The rectifier cable is included with the engine components. Could you provide information on the type of engine (diesel, Kohler), as well as the model number and serial number?
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What are the model and serial numbers of the Kubota diesel engine? As I revisited this post, steps 15 and 16 stood out to me. In these steps, it is important to determine the voltage of the white wire. By disconnecting the white wire from the starter and testing it to a "good" ground while the machine is running, we can identify if the harness/regulator is faulty based on a low or nonexistent voltage reading (below 12 volts). The voltage reading should be similar to the battery voltage when measured from the white/red wire, indicating that the battery cable is functioning properly. The white wire is responsible for returning power from the rectifier to the battery for charging. If you need further assistance, feel free to call me at 412-965-1580. I have carpal tunnel syndrome, so typing can be challenging for me.
I am having trouble locating the harness on the website you provided. I have checked the Kubota website, but I require the series, model, and serial number of the engine.
I wanted to provide an update on the recent issue we encountered. After dedicating some time to resolving it, we discovered that the key switch was not transmitting DC power efficiently. By replacing the key switch, we were able to rectify the issue. In terms of Dingo recharge, the process is as follows: AC dynamo supplies power to the voltage regulator, which then sends DC power back to the switch. This power then loops back to recharge the battery.
Exciting update: It's always empowering to overcome challenges! Wishing you ongoing success in all your endeavors...
Oh no, it seems like gremlins are making a comeback once again!